Stone is used today for the same reasons it was used thousands of years ago – Durability, prestige, beauty, and temperature resistance (to name a few)! We see stone used for jewelry, interior and exterior finishes, building materials, and even commemorating our dead.

Stone tile is ideal for many places in your home, including bathrooms, kitchens, fireplaces, pools, and laundry rooms. Depending on the stone, some are great for residential use, while others are ideal for high-traffic commercial applications such as malls, hotels, museums, and restaurants.

This training compiles many of our existing resources with newly created information. Content features interesting topics and harder-to-find information on stone tiles.

Basalt -An igneous stone of volcanic origin with fine-grained and subtle texture. Basalt tile is dark-colored, highly dense, and extremely durable.

Bluestone -Bluestone tile is unrelated to any geological term as it encompasses over 20 different stones, which are igneous, sedimentary, or metamorphic, so we have left it off the Types of Natural Stone Tile chart. Depending on origin, some Bluestones are labeled as Basalt, Slate, or Limestone. Bluestone in the US is commonly deep blue to medium grey.

Dolomite -Dolomite is of sedimentary origin and is formed from limestone. It has a crystalline structure and is often misclassified as a marble because it has similar characteristics and appearance. Dolomite tile is slightly harder than marble but still classified as a softer stone.

Granite -A very hard natural igneous stone that is usually stain and scratch-resistant. Granites are the 2nd hardest architectural stone, just behind Quartzite. Granite is formed by extreme heat and volcanic action. Its characteristic colors include a wide variety and mixes of colors. Granite tile is commonly specified with a high polished on countertops, but absolute black is popular with a leathered finish.

Limestone -A sedimentary stone primarily composed of 50% calcium carbonate. Limestone is formed by the action of water and great pressure. Its characteristic colors include neutrals, off-white, beige, tan, taupe, light blue, and grey. The look of limestone is created by the interaction of sediment deposits and shells with geological activity. Limestone tile finishes are usually honed and typically do not hold a high gloss polish. Limestone tile is generally more homogeneous in appearance.

Marble -Marble is the metamorphic product of limestone, forming when heat and great pressure are applied to it. Its characteristics include a huge variety and mixture of colors. The veins found in marble are created by interacting mineral deposits with geological activity. Marble tile can take a high polish due to its hard surface and present a distinctive crystalline texture.

Onyx -A category of stones made of layered bands of light-colored translucent materials. Onyx stone tiles are composed of calcium carbonate, often formed in caves as stalagmites and stalactites. Onyx tile can be backlit and is often miscategorized as marble.

Quartzite - is a hard, non-foliated metamorphic rock that was originally pure quartz sandstone. Typically only available in slab format, this is the hardest stone material on the market, with minimal color choices, in a high-price category. Note – Quartz countertops are a man-made product not to be confused with Quartzite.

Sandstone - A sedimentary stone primarily composed of loose, rough grains of quartz sand. Sandstone typically has a grainy and rough texture with designs that resemble layers of laminations reminiscent of a wind-swept landscape.

Slate - Metamorphic stone composed of clay, quartz, and shale, characterized by distinct layering. Slate tiles are predominantly available in cleft-finished tiles, ideal for use in exterior, non-freeze settings in the proper thickness.

Soapstone - Soapstone is a unique rustic-looking material. It is a talc-schist, which is a type of metamorphic rock. It is produced by dynamo-thermal metamorphism and metasomatism, which occurs in zones where tectonic plates are subducted by heat and pressure with an influx of fluids but without melting. Its unusual thermal properties and closely packed makeup are perfect for large spaces and heated flooring. This stone is heat and acid-resistant.

Travertine -A type of limestone formed by water passing through the stone from hot springs. Some layers contain pores and cavities, which create an open texture. Depending on the product selected, pores in Travertine tile may be filled or unfilled. Travertine tile is available in warm earth tones, making it one of the most popular stones for interior and exterior flooring. Some varieties of Travertine tile take a polish and are commonly known as marble.

It's impossible to talk about designing with stone tile without discussing cross-cut vs vein cut natural stone. This is because the cut dramatically changes the appearance of the stones veining pattern.

What is Cross Cut Stone?

• Cross-cut stone tile is quarried parallel to the natural plane. This horizontal cut produces the most typical appearance of stone with dispersed & random patterns. Cross-cut stone is usually what most people first think of when visualizing what most stone tile looks like.

What is Vein Cut Stone?

• Vein-cut stone tile is quarried perpendicular to the natural plane, vertically cut from the mountain or quarry. Travertine is commonly vein cut, as is marble. Vein Cutting provides a linear appearance, historically positioned lengthwise in format.

Design Implications

• Although stone fits all aesthetics, it is often labeled as traditional and classic. Vein-cut stone provides a contemporary appeal to what many consider a traditional and classic material.
• Linear patterns help visually stretch a room, which is true in tile, wallpaper, and general design.
• Many glazed porcelain tiles are designed to mimic vein-cut stone, and as the demand for contemporary spaces increases, so will the vein-cut options available on the market in both stone and porcelain.

SEE THE GRAPHIC BELOW SHOWING THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CROSS-CUT AND VEIN-CUT TILES.

What is a tile's "finish"? The finish is the surface of it, defined by its appearance and feel to the touch. Finishes have unique benefits and nuances, with some going as far as changing the mollecular structure of the surface!

Acid-Washed Finish - A treatment applied to a stone's face to achieve a distressed texture or finish. The use of acid and other chemical treatments has recently decreased due to environmental and disposal concerns. Chemical processes have been replaced by mechanical methods that can texture the face of a stone.

Antiqued Finish -A finish that replicates rustic or distressed textures. Produced through mechanical or chemical means to simulate the naturally occurring effects of the aging process. See the example below of the New Ravenna Giovanni Barbieri Timeworn collection.

Brushed Finish - A subtly textured surface finish achieved by wet brushing a stone with a coarse rotary-type abrasive brush. The effect is a timeworn floor with a soft and slightly undulated texture.

Bush Hammered Finish - A type of stone finish - a hammering process that creates a textured surface on natural stone. Bush hammering creates a non-skid surface that is typically suitable for outdoor areas.

Cleft Finish -Rough-surfaced stones such as slates or sandstones that are cleaved or separated along a natural seam are referred to as natural cleft. Slate is traditionally hand-split and boxed right at the quarry.

Embossed Finish - A decoration in relief or excised on the wear surface.

Etched Finish - A decorative surface pattern created by various methods produced either by chemical or mechanical methods.

Flamed Finish - Produced by brief exposure to propane flame to make crystals 'explode' from the surface, causing a rough texture. This process makes the stone more porous and proper care should be taken with maintaining the tile. Suitable for areas where traction is a concern. Predominantly limited to Granites and some limestones – other materials may not be hard or stable enough for this treatment.

Honed Finish - The treatment of a natural stone to provide a flat, smooth, non-reflective matte surface. Honed surfaces are typically achieved via the use of diamond abrasives.

Honed & Filled Finish - Term that refers to Travertine, in which the natural holes & pits are filled with a similarly colored resin or epoxy at the factory. This is commonly written as H/F.

Honed & Unfilled Finish -Unfilled Travertine is considered more rustic & some clients prefer the unfilled look. However, most installers require that they fill the holes with grout during installation & won't warranty their work otherwise. This is commonly written as H/U.

Leather Finish -Typically available on granite, a leather finish is applied to honed material to achieve a dimple-like texture, creating a subtle hand-made feel. Most popular with black-colored granites.

Polished Finish -The treatment of a natural stone to provide a light-reflective surface. Polished surfaces are typically achieved via the use of diamond abrasives. Not all stones can achieve a polished finish.

Split-face or Rock-Face Finish - A rough texture, achieved by hand cutting, chiseling or hydraulic guillotine. Split Face finishes provides textural interest for vertical applications.

Saw-Cut Finish - Stone that has been sawed without further refinement. This finish is common on Travertine.

Textured Finish - A rough surface finish.

Tumbled Finish -A weathered, aging finish created when the stone is tumbled with sand, pebbles, or steel bearings. Typically, stones larger than 12x12 are not available in this format due to breakage, and you will find the larger the stone, the higher the cost due to this breakage factor.

Beveled Edge - An edge treatment done to tile and stone that slopes the full edges all the way around the tile's surface.

Chamfer Edge - A fine 45-degree bevel applied to the edges of a stone tile to minimize chipping during handling and facilitate installation. This term is often generalized as a micro-bevel.

Chiseled Edge - A process of mechanically chipping the tile edge, thus giving the stone a rustic, aged appearance.

Cobbled Edge - An edge chiseled by hand to give a distressed appearance.

Eased Edge - A slightly chamfered or radiused edge to eliminate the sharpness of the fabricated stone edge.

Micro-Bevel - To get this kind of edge, the Straight Cut tiles are run through one more process to give the top edge of the tile a small angle. This extra feature helps soften the landing of bare feet. High-end tiles often have a micro-bevel.

Pillowed - A tile finish that features softly rounded edges, thus giving the tile a pillowed look.

Straight Cut or Cut-to-Size - Commonly available, simple, straight edge.

NATURAL STONE INSTALLATION TIPS

Stone tile should be installed using methods and materials as the Tile Council of North America (TCNA) recommends. An Architessa sales representative will advise you on general installation questions. Here are general tips to help guide your project.

• Before scheduling installation, confirm with your supplier the type of stone specified is appropriate for the desired area of use. Not all stones are safe in moisture prone areas.
• Discuss whether exposed edges will be eased on site or if a trim piece will be selected.
• Thresholds are available for door entry and shower curbs. These can also be used for window wills & trimming a niche.
• Discuss whether you will use stone for your baseboard. We recommend a minimum size of 6-10" if cutting the field tile. Stone Baseboard is also available to purchase.
• Stone must be cut with a diamond blade and a wet saw.
• Seal loose stones before installing to assist with the grouting process.
• Dry lay the tiles to ensure they are evenly dispersed. There is a natural range of color, veins and/or fossils that is inherent in stone tile and in order to achieve a flow in design, a careful dry lay & mixing of boxes is imperative. Failure to mix the boxes and tiles could leave you with ranges of shades that do not properly flow together.
  

THINSET & MORTAR TIPS

Stones have different mortar & thinset requirements.

• Always use white thinset when installing natural stones.
• Moisture sensitive stones must be installed with a rapid setting product.
• Resin or meshed-backed mosaics require a resinous adhesive, such as epoxy.

You may search "how to clean marble" and receive a plethora of conflicting information. There are many different types of natural stone tile, and what is true for one may be different for another. Getting the stone care & maintenance information from the manufacturer is always important, but here are some general tips for cleaning natural stone tile.

• Regularly inspect and have any damaged tiles professionally removed/replaced if desired.
• Promptly wipe spills and clean with a damp cloth or sponge. Spills not cleaned up promptly may penetrate natural stone.
• Sweep and/or vacuum floors regularly to remove dirt particles, dust, or debris. Over time, the buildup can be abrasive to the surface.
• Use felt or rubber protective pads under furniture to prevent scratching stone surfaces.
• Place good quality floor mats in high-traffic locations and areas susceptible to moisture (i.e., near entrance /exit ways). This is especially important for polished stones to decrease the chances of slipping.
• Never use products that contain acids on marble, limestone, Travertine, or onyx surfaces, including vinegar and lime juice, bleach, and ammonia.
• Never use abrasive cleaners, scouring pads/creams, or essential oils.
• Avoid "over-the-counter" stone care sprays that contain phosphoric and glycolic acids, as these may etch some polished stone surfaces.
• Only use products formulated for natural stone surfaces. We recommend Laticrete STONETECH natural stone cleaner.
• Pressure washing is not recommended as part of routine maintenance. Consult a stone restoration company if you decide to pressure wash your stone.

Architessa sells a variety of Laticrete STONETECHproducts that are perfect for cleaning and protecting your natural stone tile.

HOW TO CLEAN NATURAL STONE COUNTERTOPS

After sweeping away debris, clean stone surfaces with a few drops of neutral cleaner, stone soap, or a mild liquid dishwashing detergent and warm water.

1. Use a clean, soft cloth for best results.

2. Too much cleaner or soap may leave a film and cause streaks.

3. Rinse the surface thoroughly after washing with the soap solution and dry with a soft cloth.

HOW TO CLEAN NATURAL STONE FLOORS

Dust mop interior floors frequently using a clean, non-treated dry dust mop. Sand, dirt, and grit do the most damage to natural stone surfaces due to their abrasiveness. Mats or area rugs inside and outside an entrance will help to minimize the sand, dirt, and grit that will scratch the stone floor. Be sure that the underside of the mat or rug is a non-slip surface. Normally, it will take a person about eight steps on a floor surface to remove sand or dirt from the bottom of their shoes. Normal maintenance involves periodic washing with clean, potable water and neutral (pH 7) cleaners. Soapless cleaners are preferred because they minimize streaks and film. Mild, phosphate-free, biodegradable liquid dishwashing soaps, powders, or stone soaps are acceptable with thorough rinsing.

1. Wet the stone surface with clean water.
2. Wash in small overlapping sweeps using the cleaning solution (following the manufacturer's directions). Work from the bottom up if it is a vertical surface.
3. Rinse thoroughly with clean, potable water to remove all traces of soap or cleaner solution.
4. Change the water in the rinse pail frequently.
5. Dry with a soft cloth and allow it to air dry thoroughly.

HOW TO CLEAN NATURAL STONE BATHS, SHOWERS, & WET AREAS

Soap scum can be minimized by using a squeegee after each use. To remove soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (about 1/2 cup ammonia to a gallon of water). Frequent or overuse of an ammonia solution may eventually dull the stone's surface.

Outdoor Pool and Patio Areas

In outdoor pools, patios, or hot tub areas, flush with clear water and use a mild bleach solution to remove algae or moss.

HOW TO CLEAN EXTERIOR NATURAL STONE

Large expanses of stone generally found on exterior applications may make it impractical to perform normal maintenance frequently. Large installations, however, should be given periodic overall cleaning as necessary to remove accumulated pollutants. Easily accessible stone surfaces such as steps, walkways, fountains, etc., should be kept free of debris and soiling by periodically sweeping and washing with water. Normal maintenance should include periodic inspection of stone surfaces for structural defects, movement, deterioration, or staining.

NATURAL STONE TROUBLESHOOTING

• Etch Marks — Calcium-based stones etch more easily. Etch marks are caused by acids (typically from milk, fruit juices, wine, etc.) left on the stone's surface; some will etch the finish but not leave a stain, and others will both etch and stain. Once the stain has been removed, wet the surface with clear water and sprinkle with marble polishing powder. Rub the powder into the stone with a damp cloth or using a buffing pad with a low-speed power drill or polisher. Continue buffing until the etch mark disappears and the marble surface shines. Honing may be required for deep etching. This process may require the services of a stone restoration professional.
• White Residue — Test the surface by attempting to scrape it off. Use a nylon pan scraper or
• A razor blade to carefully scrape the residue. If it can be easily removed, you are dealing with dried products (soaps, cleaning products, shampoo, oils) on the stone. The shavings
• It will either be soapy when water is introduced or oily if it is conditioner, lotion, or hair treatment. If shavings can be scraped, it may be an accumulation of soaps, cleaning products, or hard water buildup. If the white residue is powdery, it's likely efflorescence.
• Product Buildup — This is a common problem that occurs when stone is not regularly cleaned or not cleaned properly. Stonetech soapstone remover is recommended for cleaning.
• Hard Water Buildup — Hard water deposits can be scraped away but with significantly more difficulty. Stonetech soapstone remover is recommended for cleaning.
• Efflorescence — A white powder that may appear on the stone's surface is caused by water carrying mineral salts from below the stone's surface to the surface, which has evaporated. When the water evaporates, it leaves a powdery salt residue. Typically, efflorescence is a minor inconvenience that can be remedied without replacing the stone. If the installation is new, dust mop or vacuum the powder. Repeat as necessary as the stone dries out. If the installation is not fresh, follow regular cleaning procedures and use a Stonetech specialty product if available (check the list of approved stones first.
• As calcium-based stones can etch if you use the wrong chemicals). If the problem persists, periodic professional cleaning may be required. When the efflorescence cannot be treated, a bigger problem underneath the stone may be present (moisture in the substrate). In this case, a professional stone restoration company will need to be consulted to determine the viability of restoration or replacement.

Please see the Stone Care & Maintenance Brochure below for more troubleshooting tips.